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A very close friend of ours moved away from Perth to the central NSW coast nearly ten years ago to be with the love of her life.  Although Facebook has allowed us to both stay in nearly daily contact, we haven’t cast eyes on each other since she left many years ago.  She is one of those kindred souls that when you are lucky enough to cross paths in life you never want to let them go. There is just one thing about her that we both hate; she has cystic fibrosis.  Not that in the past that ever seemed to stop her living her life to the fullest. She is by far and by large the most positive, brave and strong willed person I know, occasionally to her detriment!  But there is only so much a pair of lungs can take and since the birth of her gorgeous doe-eyed daughter, her lungs have been on a slow and steady decline.  She has been on the transplant list for the better part of a year now and we are all crossing every finger and toe that some beautiful brand new shiny lungs will be on her doorstep soon.

My conference lectures were held at the Sydney University which is conveniently located right next door to the Royal Prince Alfred Hospital where my dear friend was currently staying.  The luxury of being able to pop “next door” and see her after lectures was a privilege I didn’t want to waste so I tried to get over there as many times as possible.  After our initial tears of joy in seeing each other for the first time in so long, we easily slipped into our old habits as we joked and laughed the afternoons away. This wasn’t without receiving a few frowns from the surrounding patients in the ward as we are invariably very loud together.

The Boy arrived on the Friday ready for a short weekend city getaway and was able to join me for my last afternoon hangout with her the following day at the Hospital.  It was so sad to say farewell as I had been having such a fabulous time seeing her but I have vowed to myself to not leave it so long between visits.  What better reason to return to Sydney!?!

In a delayed Valentine’s celebration, I had made a reservation several months ago at Marque knowing it to be in San Pellegrino’s World’s 100 Best Restaurants.  Over the years, we have enjoyed visiting a wide range of fine dining establishments all over the world.  Much of this has been prior to the first seed of Chompchomp being planted.  There are some attentions to detail during these experiences that I have come to expect as standard, especially when consider the cost of your meal. One of these details is the execution of unfaultable and impeccable service.  The wait staff should literally gush over their guests and make them feel like royalty. Having this above and beyond approach to customers forms nearly as big a part of the wow factor as does the food and is a vital part of the whole experience.

Upon arrival to Marque we were greeted with just a stern nod by a staff member that the Boy and I later named “The Matron”.  She left us standing in the doorway nearly on top of customer’s tables long enough to be a little uncomfortable.  We were ushered to our seats after a brief delay and started to take in the atmosphere, or lack of it.  The dining room felt fairly barren and clinical however I tried to look past this detail as I have found some incredible restaurants where the dining room is very simple and basic. For example Restaurant Amuse; where each of my three visits has left me completely awestruck with the fabulous experience.

I started the night off with the only type of Champagne available by the glass; some René Geoffroy Purete Brut which was quite vibrant and crisp with a dry finish.  The perfect way to start a meal! Our amuse bouche looked a bit like a clam shell and consisted of two truffled potato crisps with bonito and foie gras inside.  Unfortunately as I was trying to photograph it I was sternly told off by The Matron like a naughty little school child that there is to be no flash photography.  Consequently my photos for the evening are nothing short of horrendous – I am so sorry dear readers!  (For the full album see my Flickr account.)  Now I understand that some customers may find a flash disrupting to their meal and accept this request is totally reasonable.  However for the remaining duration of the evening on several occasions I caught “The Matron” giving me disapproving looks across the dining room.  This made for a fairly unpleasant vibe. To add to this the remainder of the wait staff were cold and almost snooty giving an air of pretension that in no way added to the experience.

The sommelier of the night was the only exception to the team and I was drawn to a heightened level of excitement for each wine he introduced as he described it and why it complements the food so eloquently.

This first course dish was quite amazing having quite distinct separate layers of flavours almost like you get with some macarons! The initial strong flavours of the soft crab were lifted by a layer of light almond foam, progressing on the palate to the salty fresh sea taste of the avruga and ending with the sweeter butter popcorn aftertaste.  Magic!  The wine was matched beautifully (as were all the wines of the evening) and its oily aftertaste lingering on the palate with the corn flavours was divine.

The marron course was the Boys favourite.  The marron was so tender and was lightly dusted with tomato dust.  Each dollop of accompaniments on the plate were absolute delights in their own right and individually married with a morsel of marron to create its own little world of taste sensation spanning from dulcet sweet to buttery and ending with an acidic tomato flavour.

The Wagyu was marbled perfectly and was accompanied with tiny little pencil thin dill cucumbers which were sliced into miniature little medallions packed with a zing.  Following on from the beef was the Dutch Cream Potatoes with Bone Marrow, Sea Urchin, and Coffee.  (It was matched with 2008 Heymann-Lӧwenstein ‘Schieferterrassen’ Riesling, Mosel, Germany.)   This was one of our waiter’s favourite dishes.  These potatoes were a hearty delight and made me wish the Boy’s mum (who is Dutch) would serve them at our next family dinner!  They were so smooth and delectable!

In the aftermath of the delicious potatoes, the grouper didn’t excite either of us much at all.  Although it looked quite attractive on the plate, but it was fairly bland and was made even less inspiring by the following duck egg dish which was outstanding.

Wow. This was my favourite dish of the night by far. The smokey duck egg combined with tart sour cherries was out of this world.  My egg wasn’t dusted in the leek ash due to my onion intolerance but the boy said this addition made it even more sumptuous.  This course was served with home-baked bread to lash smatterings of duck liver onto.

Unfortunately for me, despite making our dinner reservation no less than five months in advance there was no gluten-free bread option to offer me.  I think this would probably have to be one of the first fine dining establishments that this has happened to me since my diagnosis 3 years ago.  I couldn’t hide my disappointment watching the Boy eagerly smear his liver onto his own hot steaming bread.

I had not tried Brunet before and given I love goat’s cheese I was excited to try it. Similar to many goats cheese, it was quite tangy and lemony, with sour cream notes, but also with some earthy depth to it.  It was topped with tiny slivers of raw velvety mushroom.

The first dessert course was right up my alley of dessert styles; there is something about combining sweet yet piquant berry flavours with contrasting tangy yoghurt tastes that really hits the spot for me.

The second dessert course was different for us both and unfortunately I was only given a menu for the courses served to the whole restaurant not with my variations (unlike at Amber in Hong Kong where we each got our own copy ready printed in an embossed folder…..).  The Boy doesn’t recall much about his as by this point understandably, all the courses start to blur together a little for him.

The night ended on Mark Best’s Signature Sauternes custard.  I had read a number of amazing recounts of this dessert and was keen to see if it lived up to the hype. Despite all the food in our bellies we both struggled to hold ourselves back from gobbling this down greedily.  It was served in an egg-shell with the top precisely cut off at a neat and sharp angle.  I almost thought it was a fake egg-shell until I saw the Boy accidentally crack his as he eagerly spooned out the delicious silky custard. Before I could even giggle and comment I broke mine too!

Unfortunately for Mark, visitors to his restaurant are going to continue walk away underwhelmed if he is unable to obtain staff with the right attitude to serve his customers in the front of house.  Despite most of the dishes being quite outstanding certainly not all were so, and when coupled with the lack of personalised service and cold attitudes Marque would not be somewhere I would be keen to return to in a hurry.  I have since spoken to two of my relatives who live in Sydney and after dining at Marque twice have formed similar impressions to me each time. Sadly, I walked away disappointed especially as I thought it would be the highlight of my time in Sydney.  On a much brighter note, it turns out hanging out with my pal in the Respiratory ward of RPA took first place as the most wonderful experience in a long time. By several miles. (Totes smoop, love ya Garnet Girl xx….)

Check out my other Sydney posts

Marque

355 Crown Street, Surry Hills, 2010 | (02) 9332 2225 | www.marquerestaurant.com.au

 

Price:               $$$$ (Degustation $150 excluding cheese course, extra $85 for matched wine)

Food:                4/5  (definitely some winners here but some that were just ok)

Service:           2/5    (for this calibre of restaurant I expect much more)

Ambience:      2.5/5 (stark and uninviting)

Drinks:           5/5    (my first 5 in some time – matched wines were exceptional – kudos to the sommellier)

Total:             13.5/20